Return to the Pyramids – Our Final Days in Egypt

Return to the Pyramids – Our Final Days in Egypt March 18-20, 2025

For our final bus journey in Egypt, we decided to splurge—well, relatively speaking—and try GoBus’s Aero class. GoBus operates with three levels of comfort: Elite (standard), Business (a step up), and Aero, their top-tier option. Aero costs double the price of the Elite class, but at only US$20 per person for a seven-hour ride, it still felt like a deal. The Aero seats were plush, each in their own pod with powered reclining and footrests, definitely a touch more elegant, though not dramatically more comfortable than Business. They didn’t recline flat, which was a bit of a letdown for a premium offering and there was not as much legroom as expected, but the ride was smooth enough.

We arrived back in Cairo and took an Uber to the budget Pyramids Hills View hotel in Giza for US$15 a night. The room was tiny and had no windows, but for that price, it was perfectly acceptable—especially since it included breakfast and was just a two-minute walk from the Great Pyramids and a rooftop restaurant with amazing views of the Great Pyramids. You can’t beat that location. It is amazing how we have stayed at such a big range of accommodations in Egypt. In just three nights we went from a US$200 a night All-Inclusive Resort to a US$95 a night high-end condo and now a US$15 a night basic hotel room. Truly Egypt is a destination for every budget range.

The next morning, we returned to the Pyramids. We usually don’t revisit the same sights, but the Giza Pyramids—the last remaining wonder of the ancient world—felt like an exception worth making. We wandered the grounds again, marveling at how these colossal structures were built over four millennia ago. It’s humbling to think that nothing we build today is likely to stand for 4,000 years.

We treated ourselves to snacks and drinks at Laduree Khufu, a fancy (and pricey) restaurant on the Pyramid site before heading out for one last camel ride. Unfortunately, this time the guide was inexperienced and rushed the experience. He also didn’t treat the camels very well, which dampened the experience quite a bit.

That evening, we climbed to the hotel rooftop to watch the famous Pyramid light show. Sadly, it didn’t live up to the hype. It was just colored lights flicking on and off—no lasers, no storytelling, nothing too impressive, especially considering it costs US$20 per person to view it from the official viewing area. Watching from our rooftop was free, so at least we didn’t feel too cheated.

For our last full day in Egypt, we wanted to see the other pyramids—those that came before the famous trio at Giza. These original pyramids are in Saqqara, about an hour’s drive from Giza so we hired a car and driver for the day for 1,500 EGP (around US$30).

Our first stop was the Bent Pyramid, an architectural anomaly with its change in angle midway up. The bottom half is steep, but the top half tapers at a gentler slope—a correction made when builders realized the original angle was too ambitious for the foundation.

We ventured inside, crawling down a steep shaft into a small chamber, then climbing up again via narrow wooden stairs to reach the central room, empty except for some bats and the massive stones that made it all possible. It was exhausting with all the stooping and scrambling, but fascinating nonetheless.

Next, we visited the Red Pyramid, the final prototype pyramid, which looks like a smaller version of the Giza pyramids. Holly went inside while Olivia and I opted to stay out, still recovering from our last pyramid crawl.

Lunchtime brought us to a touristy roadside restaurant which featured a small band playing music as people got off tour busses—overpriced, at around 600 Egyptian Pounds per person, and forgettable, clearly catering to the big bus tour crowds. But given it was Ramadan, our dining options were limited, so we made do.

Our final pyramid stop was the Step Pyramid, the very first pyramid ever built. Unlike the smooth-sided pyramids of later dynasties, this one resembles a layered wedding cake, made of bricks instead of stone blocks. Holly was still full of energy, so she ventured inside on her own while Olivia and I admired the structure from outside.

Back in Cairo that evening, we decided to have one last nice meal. Holly found a Sizzler steakhouse—not affiliated with the American chain, as far as we could tell, but still a stylish and comfortable spot. The food was decent, if not quite up to Western steakhouse standards and the prices were very affordable. My steak, a medium-sized tube of meat smothered in sauce, looked like it might have been stitched together from smaller cuts. But still, it was a pleasant way to close out our time in Egypt.

Egypt is a country of contrasts. Some streets are unpaved and littered with trash, camel droppings, and horse carts. Other places feel just like any modern Western city. Traffic is one of the most remarkable things—Cairo, with its 10 million residents, has almost no traffic lights. Lanes are suggestions at best, and drivers honk constantly while weaving through a sea of people, camels, and carts. There are no crosswalks, not even in the nice modern neighborhoods, and everyone just flows like fish in water. Amazingly, in a month of travel, we only witnessed one minor accident.

The people of Egypt are equally full of contrasts and are probably best described as “unembarrassed”. They can be incredibly warm and welcoming—strangers are unembarrassed greet you with genuine smiles and “welcome to Egypt.” At the same time, some are not embarrassed to be unashamedly opportunistic, always ready to hustle a few extra pounds from a tourist.

But that’s part of Egypt’s charm—the unfiltered energy, the history soaked into the sand, the chaos and beauty woven together. Our time here has been unforgettable, and despite the ups and downs, we leave with full hearts and deeper appreciation for this ancient, vibrant land.