A Chill Ten Days in Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey: March 27 – April 6, 2025

After checking out of our hotel in Dubai, we hopped in a cab for a quick 20-minute ride to the airport. Surprisingly, Dubai’s airport felt smaller and older compared to Abu Dhabi’s sparkling new one—kind of disappointing, but not a big deal. We made it through smoothly and had plenty of time to catch our short flight to Istanbul.

We landed in Istanbul in the evening. After hitting the ATM for some cash, we skipped buying a SIM card—those at the airport were reportedly 2–3 times more expensive than in the city. Instead, we figured out how to catch a shuttle bus to Taksim Square. It was around dinner time, and our first meal in Turkey ended up being McDonald’s at the airport. Not exactly what we had in mind, but it did the job.

Our Airbnb was conveniently located right next to Taksim Square, so it wasn’t too hard to find. Even though the flight was short, by the time we accounted for getting to the airport early, the actual flight, and the hour-and-a-half bus ride, we were all pretty wiped out.

Settling In

Our first full day in Istanbul was low-key. We were still tired, so we mainly just went out in search of food. To our surprise, eating out was more expensive than we’d expected. A simple doner kebab was about 150 TL (roughly US$4), but most restaurant meals ran 200–400 TL per person. Eventually, we found a cafeteria-style buffet similar to the ones in Kuala Lumpur. You pay for what you take, and it ended up being a lifesaver—we fed all three of us for under 400 TL (about US$11). We also discovered a few small grocery stores and stocked up to cook at home, which we usually prefer for budget and convenience.

Taksim Square and Istiklal Street

The next day, we ventured out to explore. Taksim Square is a major landmark and protest site in Istanbul. Turkey was going through some political tension—the President had recently arrested the Mayor of Istanbul, his main political rival. A big protest had occurred just a week prior, but when we visited, the square was calm aside from a few extra fences and heavy police presence.

Taksim Square itself is just an open space—not much to see—but from it stretches Istiklal Street, a lively pedestrian avenue packed with shops, restaurants, and cafes. We stopped at the iconic Hafiz Mustafa 1884 dessert shop and splurged a little: 400 TL for a baklava sampler (just four pieces!), 180 TL for a plate of cheese and honey, and of course, Turkish coffee. The baklava was sweet and flaky, but the real standout was the cheese and honey on bread. The cheese had the texture of butter and a mild flavor that paired perfectly with the honey. Hands down, one of the best things we’ve ever eaten—definitely made our global top 10.

Skipping the Pricey Tourist Traps

After our sugar fix, we took the nostalgic tram down Istiklal Street to Galata Tower. The views from the top were supposedly amazing, but with a €30 per person entry fee, it felt a bit steep—especially after just coming from Dubai and the Burj Khalifa. We passed on it and instead meandered down cobblestone alleys to the Galata Bridge at the Golden Horn.

Crossing the bridge, we saw dozens of people fishing off the sides and found ourselves in a very touristy area filled with pricey restaurants. Luckily, we stumbled upon another cafeteria buffet—not as cheap as the one near our Airbnb, but still reasonable.

We did a little more research and realized that most major attractions in Istanbul—museums, palaces, and historical sites—charged €30 or more per person. For us, having seen so many palaces, castles, and museums around the world, it just didn’t feel worth it to drop US$100 per attraction, especially after our recent trip to Egypt where we saw 4,000-year-old pyramids. So, we chose to take it easy.

Enjoying the Slower Side of Istanbul

Instead of cramming in all the touristy must-dos, we soaked in the everyday life around us. Our Airbnb had a cute little balcony that looked out onto a European-style street—felt like we could’ve been in a small French town. We took things slowly.

We visited the Blue Mosque, which was free and had a unique charm that newer mosques—like the extravagant ones in Dubai—just can’t replicate.

One afternoon, we hopped on a ferry across the Bosporus Strait to the Asian side of the city and wandered into the Kadikoy district. We found an amazing seafood spot, Balikçi Lokantasi, with a creamy fish soup so delicious I ordered a second bowl.

Getting back was an adventure—Google Maps sent us to a bus that wasn’t running, so we had to retrace our steps and ferry back to the European side.

Friends, Felines, and Food

As a fun surprise, we discovered that some Chinese friends we had met in Portugal were also in Istanbul. We met up and shared a massive Turkish breakfast at Sa Va Anatolian Breakfast House—literally dozens of small dishes from eggs and beef sausage to salads, rolls, and more. Delicious, and even better when shared.

Olivia was thrilled to find that Istanbul is basically a giant cat café. Cats are everywhere, and the locals adore them. There were cat houses and feeding stations all over the city. One walk, she counted over 40 cats on the street. We spent one whole day just relaxing in a park and feeding cats.

We also caught the new Minecraft movie on opening day at a theater and on another day taking the ferry over to the Uskudar district. Nearby, the Kuzguncuk Evleri neighborhood was a charming area filled with coffee shops—great for an afternoon stroll.

We braved the crowds at the Grand Bazaar, too. It was incredibly busy—so packed it almost felt dangerous. Very different from the open-air Grand Bazaar in Cairo.

Final Thoughts

In total, we spent ten relaxed days in Istanbul. We didn’t check off every tourist attraction, but we didn’t feel like we missed out. We cooked most of our meals, took a few ferry rides, explored local neighborhoods, and had time to homeschool and unwind—even enjoyed the rainy days. And of course, we made a couple more trips back to Hafiz Mustafa 1884 for that unforgettable cheese, honey, and bread.

Sometimes, it’s not about seeing everything—it’s about feeling the place. And Istanbul, with its charming streets, friendly cats, and hidden gems, gave us plenty to enjoy.